I had no idea what temperature the iron was set to it was turned right up but then I turned it down a little and got better results.
I have won a second hand laminator on ebay like this one http://www.pulsarprofx.com/PCB/a_Pages/ ... cator.html
maybe that will help
avr programing ( target ) board
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Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments.
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I think I would have to flatten my hand first to get it in a laminator
I found this little tip somewhere might be useful
"After probably hundreds of toner-based PCBs from home, I have found one simple and quick step to assure a good toner transfer regardless of the paper used: clean the board with acetone and/or alcohol then dip a paper towel in some of your etchant and rub the surface of the board. After the surface is a dark brown, clean the surface again, then proceed with the usual transfer method. The microscopic pits in the surface from this step will grab the toner better than any other surface treatment I have used. After using this method, I cannot recall a single failed board even with a variety of glossy papers."
I found this little tip somewhere might be useful
"After probably hundreds of toner-based PCBs from home, I have found one simple and quick step to assure a good toner transfer regardless of the paper used: clean the board with acetone and/or alcohol then dip a paper towel in some of your etchant and rub the surface of the board. After the surface is a dark brown, clean the surface again, then proceed with the usual transfer method. The microscopic pits in the surface from this step will grab the toner better than any other surface treatment I have used. After using this method, I cannot recall a single failed board even with a variety of glossy papers."
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- Posts: 168
- Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2008 5:41 pm
Ok first you will need some perf board like these
Strip board is no good
solder your components as shown here noting the correct layout for the programming socket and the avr socket
the capacitor and resonator have no polarity
Now with the parts soldered and the board flipped over just join the dots to each other with some small wire
the 4 pins at the top of the picture can be bridged together using the cut off leg of a previously used component like a led or resistor
just follow the pictures joining up the dots
Strip board is no good
solder your components as shown here noting the correct layout for the programming socket and the avr socket
the capacitor and resonator have no polarity
Now with the parts soldered and the board flipped over just join the dots to each other with some small wire
the 4 pins at the top of the picture can be bridged together using the cut off leg of a previously used component like a led or resistor
just follow the pictures joining up the dots
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- Posts: 20
- Joined: Mon Mar 17, 2008 5:06 pm
thanks a ton man, im definatly try this out when i get the time/parts(using parts of my 1st attempt at tvbg, completely messed up board - traces killed and such..), only thing that will be a hassle is desoldering it all, im not sure though, i might have to order some parts of mouser anyway cause I broke one lead on my oscilattor and it'd probably near impossible to solder(anyone know of something that uses an 8mhz oscilator i could salvage out of?).
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- Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 2:20 am
USB TinyISP alone not sufficient??
I just made 2 tvbgones and will be making the tinyisp tomorrow with the hopes of uploading more IR codes. I was under the impression that I could hook the TinyISP directly to the TVBgone and just push the new codes. Do I need a programmer board as well? Obviously I'm totally new to this. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
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Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments.