Hi.. I took the software from Jason's VFD clock and ported it to the ice tube clock. http://www.vonnieda.org/tc18
Not a strict port, because I am now using an atmega328 (Solarbotics Ardweeny) and an i2c RTC chip. For my application, I needed a clock that was very accurate and long backup battery life (because I turn off all power except refrigerator when leaving the house). Being able to control the display via serial is a plus because I have some hacked routers that speak serial and later I might want to use NTP to sync time.
Video demo: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-hwaGUowrg
- Didn't want to have to solder/de-solder anything from the stock ice tube clock board
- Made the ardweeny with just the FTDI headers.. tried to make it as low profile as possible using right angle headers
- Burnt Arduino Pro 3.3V 8mhz bootloader on ardweeny
- Set fuse to use 8Mhz internal OSC
- On ardweeny, Used pads for decoupling cap for power header for RTC
- got to i2c pins somehow.. they are actually broken out nicely on the ice tube clock PCB, but didn't want to touch them because I wanted a "drop in chip" solution
- Somehow the monstrosity fit under the tube nicely.
4 pin headers easily pass through the battery cutout.
Most of the software is a merge between Jason's and Ladyada's code. Jason's being the base since it was already in arduino and used the same RTC chip. If something looks like awful code.. its probably mine, sorry.
The timer0 is used for the boost converter, so don't use the Arduino delay() function.. use delay2() instead.
Don't put a backup battery in the clock, the battery should backup the RTC chip.
Serial is 9200 buad, everything displayed is echoed via serial. Can be commented out.. but not really hurting system.
There are 2 analog pins not used (A1 + A2).. want use them for auto dimming later.
Now back to Final Fantasy XIII addiction.