Cordless soldering iron recommendation + battery removal questions

[revi]

Hello,

While I hope to get into DIY electronics to a greater degree, I currently have a modest need.

I would like to remove some soldered-in Lithium batteries: specifically the CR 2032, often used for memory back-up in synthesizers.

Then I'd like to add a battery cradle/holder so as to avoid having to de-solder/solder batteries in the future.

One issue is that I'm in a space-constrained apartment and don't feel particularly comfortable soldering in my banned, for various reasons....and that's the only spot where I still have some table space. Ventilation is an issue.

However, I could reasonably easily put a synth module on a cart, and get it out to an area where I could perform minor soldering work.

I'm not very skilled with soldering but have a bit of a hands-on design background (and math background with some EE/physics knowledge) so I'm not super-concerned.

Hence, I'd be very grateful for advice as to what kind of cordless soldering irons to consider.

Here are some that look more-or-less promising:

Neiko 40420L Tooluxe Cordless Soldering Iron
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-40420L-Tool ... B002GQCYUK

Iso-Tip 7700 Cordless Soldering Iron
http://www.amazon.com/Iso-Tip-Charge-Co ... 001LBZBDI/

Weller P2C Professional Self-Igniting Cordless Butane Solder Iron
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-P2C-Profes ... 000B61L0G/

I suspect the butane alternative is excessively elaborate but I simply don't know.

Recommendations for a battery holder would also be appreciated.

Lastly, are there any tips or cautionary notes as regards the de-soldering and removal of said batteries? Anything to avoid? How much heat (e.g., in terms of time) would one expect to need to apply? I'm guessing there's not much solder holding the battery in place so this should be relatively easy and I want to both minimize personal risk and motherboard risk.

There typically appears to be a small solder point on the top of the battery that holds it in place as in the following picture:

http://www.gearslutz.com/board/electron ... age-2.html

The photo of the Yamaha TX7 seems to pretty closely resemble what I'd be addressing.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Best regards,

Iver

[mikeselectricstuff]

Do not buy a battery iron. They are under-powered and when the battery runs out you're screwed. I've nsver seen a useable one.
Butane irons are much better - plenty of power, hot air for heatshrinking and when they run out you just refill from a standard gas-lighter refill available from any local shop. Definitely go for a self-igniting one.
You do need to take great care to keep an eye on where the hot air ejected sideways from the tip is going, especially when working on PCBs.
The better ones have a visible gas-level reservoir. Weller Pyropens are well made, although I've often found them hard to light, especialy when cold. I have two - Self-igniting Pyropen and Pyropen Junior) and both have let me down on site more then once - could just be my particular ones though..
I recently bought this Portasol one, which although slightly less solidly made than the Weller, lights very easily, even when windy.

[adafruit_support_bill]

I have a Wahl Iso-Tip around somewhere. It is a handy little iron and heated up fairly quickly, but didn't have enough power for lead-free. Mine has NiCads and the cells wore out in 9 months or so. I could probably replace the cells with something better, but I haven't gotten around to it.

I also have a SolderPro butane iron. A little bigger than the IsoTip, but more powerful. Temp control is iffy, but it gets plenty hot enough for lead-free.

[franklin97355]

Here's another option. http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=piw&pn=EA73-105

[mikeselectricstuff]

BTW a gas iron isn't really a substitute for a normal one - they are very handy for on-site type work & car stuff, but you wouldn't want to use one routinely - the lack of temp control and hot gas outlet are significant downsides.
Ventilation is not an issue for routine soldering (unless you melt things you didn't intend to) so you'd probably be better off using a conventional iron in the banned than a gas iron elsewhere.

[revi]

Hello!

Thank you for all this information!

Sooooooo, I shouldn't be that concerned about minor solder work, even in a banned? I guess I can rig some kind of improved ventilation flow. I freely admit being very cautious about these sorts of things, arguably to a fault.

Well then, as it would be a lot more convenient to do this work inside my apartment, what kind of soldering iron and solder would be appropriate for this task?

Would this work? The tip looks very fine.

Adjustable 30W 110V soldering iron - XY-258 110V
http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_ ... cts_id=180

Lastly, any observations or notes that anyone might have removing these sorts of flush-mounted batteries?

Specifically, is there an issue with heating the battery top to loosen the solder? That's something I've definitely wondered about as I can't think of any other way one would separate the battery from the clasp.

I will of course also have to view these materials!

http://www.ladyada.net/learn/soldering/thm.html

Again, thank you very much for your assistance...greatly appreciated!

Best regards,

Iver

[adafruit]

be careful you could cause the battery to explode/leak if you heat the battery itself, can you post a photo of the cell?

[westfw]

I would like to remove some soldered-in Lithium batteries: specifically the CR 2032, often used for memory back-up in synthesizers. Then I'd like to add a battery cradle/holder so as to avoid having to de-solder/solder batteries in the future.

If you are removing components to get rid of them while preserving the board, you can proceed differently than if you were trying to preserve the component and didn't care about the board.
I would cut out the battery itself using a good set of cutters, leaving orphaned leads still soldered to your board. Then unsolder the leads, one at a time, cleaning up with solderwick. This should be MUCH easier than desoldering an intact battery!

[revi]

Hello,

Again, thank you for your replies and please apologize my dropping of the thread.

The battery is almost certainly a CR2032 and the method of attaching it is/was very common for many types of musical equipment. I'm guessing the thought was that, as a non-studio instrument might be subjected to shocks and bumps that it was best to solder the battery to the board. The piece in question here is a Yamaha TX-802 (circa late 80's, early 90's) and many pieces from that era (Roland, Yamaha, Enoniq, etc.) used similar techniques.

Again, your advice is greatly appreciated. I've tried to capture the mounting but unfortunately I had to use a phone to do so.

Thanks in advance for your continued assistance. The "snip" option seems like it might be the best. The next question would be, if one were to attach some kind of harness for the battery, what sorts of precautions would be appropriate.

Best regards,

Iver

[revi]

...ah, realized I hadn't included a shot from the bracket side....

Thanks again!

Iver

[franklin97355]

As westfw says just cut the + side and you should be able to get the other side cut then remove the stubs without the battery in the way.

[Agent24]

The battery is almost certainly a CR2032 and the method of attaching it is/was very common for many types of musical equipment. I'm guessing the thought was that, as a non-studio instrument might be subjected to shocks and bumps that it was best to solder the battery to the board.

Doubt it. I've seen laptops with battery holders similar to desktops and also ones that have a battery with a wire that plugs in just like my cordless phone (which also get shocks and bumps)

More like they wanted to
1) make sure you'd bring it back for service when the battery failed or
2) you'd buy a new one when the battery failed.
3) Save cost and not pay for a holder etc

[revi]

Hello,

Thanks for all the info!

I'll just snip out the leads and then desolder...

Speaking of which, would this be a good starter kit to address the needs of this task?

http://www.adafruit.com/products/136

Anything else that might be relevant?

Thanks again!

Best,

Iver

[franklin97355]

If you are just starting out and have no good tools that is a great place to start. You should get some solder braid or wick while you are at it.