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Difference between 1.0a and 1.0b
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Difference between 1.0a and 1.0b

by fair_child on Tue Feb 25, 2014 9:33 pm

Hi there,

This is my first post. I'm going to build my 1st wave bubble. It says Rc 1.0b on the board. I bought it a year ago from eBay and haven't much time to played with that.However, now , I'm pretty sharp and straight to try build this one.

My question, what is the difference between 1.0a and 1.0b, or 2010 rev. I ordered the parts from mouser, digikey, minicircuits and rf microwave. My plan is going to follow the Limor instruction for wave bubble.

Any comments ? suggestion ? Idea ?
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Re: Difference between 1.0a and 1.0b

by lightningserpent on Wed Feb 26, 2014 8:51 am

Mictronics and thefallen designed the WB2010 boards and they are very different from the RC1a/b's. The power sections, VCOs, and programming headers are not the same as the other two WB versions. The 2010 design is cleaner (IMO) and allows a jumper to select between 5v and 12v VCOs and I am sure the 2010 design has other design differences, but since I didn't build one I can't really speak for it.

The RC1s can be a bit tougher. The panelized 1As have a silk screen error that shifts placement values and actual silkscreen footprints. The problem is that panelized 1As will read as 1b. Download the silkscreen placement pdf from the build pages and compare them to your board to verify if you have a panelized 1a or a "true" 1b. If your board's silkscreen values on your different/downright wrong from the pdf you have a 1a board.

bushing rebuilt the gerber files on the 1a. This fixed the silkscreen issue and he also made a few minor changes. He moved some silkscreen IDs to help distinguish various components better and modified the LiPoly board by making the battery solder terminals smaller so that LiPoly protection boards can be directly soldered to LiPoly board itself. You should be able to verify if you have a "true" 1b board by checking the LiPoly board's battery terminals and comparing them to the eagle files from the WB build pages. If your board's terminal are smaller and closer together than the Eagle files, you have a 1b board.

Shameless Plug:
I detailed my progress on a RC1a build here: http://forums.adafruit.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=30621. I outline problems I ran across and I tried to detail errors in the build pages as I cam across them.

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Re: Difference between 1.0a and 1.0b

by fair_child on Wed Feb 26, 2014 4:01 pm

Thanks for the enlightenment, however I found that you also bought from http://goo.gl/GxXwq. I got the same, but mine is quite different somehow. I don't know why. I'll try to post my board pictures tonight. Still waiting for the parts and I'll update for the progress here.

I ordered the parts from mouser and digikey. Rf microwave samples and minicircuits for gain stage and vco's. Mostly I ordered almost suggested parts from Limor for RC1.Dunno if it will work with RC1.0b. I hope it will work. I believe it will be delivered during these weeks. I will start work with wave bubble may be later this week.

Note: I read some of your walk through build for wave bubble. It seems that you also have had the same board like mine. However I tried to make contact but he said that he can't tell further due he is just only printing the pcb. I don't blame with him and he suggested me go to forum.

Would you mind give kind suggestion for building rc 1.0b ? I know it would be really hard and I really want to try, been considering to build since last year.

QUESTION; why did you choose different ROS component for VCO's from minicircuits ? I ordered the same like the walk through says.
QUESTION again: What is the right value for C8, C9, both resistors near the FTDI chip and C11 for AAA battery board ? I'm guessing C8, C9 and both resistors are 0.1 uF 50% 1206 abd C11 is Tantalum Capacitors - Solid SMD 6.3volts 150uF 10% (I didn't order this one, damn!), is that right value?
fair_child
 
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Re: Difference between 1.0a and 1.0b

by wtfwtfdef on Sun Mar 02, 2014 4:55 am

thanks so much for info +1
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Re: Difference between 1.0a and 1.0b

by lightningserpent on Tue Mar 04, 2014 9:32 pm

You and I have the same boards. They are the Panelized 1a boards. The silk screen is not correct and will be different from set to set. The silk screen may not be correct, but the board should assemble just fine.

I wish I could say I used 5v VCOs for some lengthy reason, but honestly it was because Mini-Circuits did not seem to have the 12v VCOs anymore. Turns out they started making them again, but only after I had already received my order. There is nothing wrong with the 12v VCOs, just don't follow the part of my guide about jumping the 5v rail.

I built the AAA board because the components were inexpensive, but I never used it because the board wouldn't assemble properly. The diodes on the underside of the main board would make contact with the AAA batteries. This could be solved with longer header pins and standoffs. I think you might be happier with the LiPoly battery board.

As far as component values go, it has been a long time since I built my RC1a. On my build journal I posted a list of parts (screen shots of my shopping cart). Purchasing in the same quantities I did will result in many extras, but you should be able to determine to "proper" values from the screen captures.

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Re: Difference between 1.0a and 1.0b

by wtfwtfdef on Sun Mar 09, 2014 7:05 pm

hey lightning, How come in your RC1a build you made a jumper on c13 to c19?? you left out l2 and ic4? Can you explain all the differenes between your board and the ladyy ada's?
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Re: Difference between 1.0a and 1.0b

by lightningserpent on Sun Mar 09, 2014 10:12 pm

Please ignore the silkscreen in any pictures of my project. I have panelized 1A boards and the silkscreen is not correct. You must refer to the design files to find the proper placement numbers.

I went with 5v VCOs and I needed an easy way to get 5v to the 12v rail. There was a forum post by thefallen suggesting that jumping C9 to C13 was a way to get 5v on the 12v rail. The VCOs were the only part that needed 12v and since I was not using 12v VCOs there was no reason to place the 12v components.

The 5v VCOs required a few other component value changes (the VTune and T-attenuation come to mind), but I since I used the same VCOs as the WB2010 I referenced the WB2010 design files a lot to help sort out the proper values.

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Re: Difference between 1.0a and 1.0b

by wtfwtfdef on Tue Mar 11, 2014 12:06 am

thanks lightning, i'll look over wb2010 design. Ah yes I am looking at .brd file and i see part numbers are different. So yours is the original rc1a gerbers, not the fixed. thanks, you did an excellent job soldering btw. Can I ask you what you used for a power supply? Would it be possible to use a small dc power supply that attaches to the wall ? Would any external supply that puts out 4 Volts be ok, ie: a higher voltage battery with a regulator and potentiometer? Can i also ask you that if you used nylon stand-offs, then wouldn't you lose that connection between the baords? doesn't the 4 connections relay power and ground between the boards? or is this all capable by the 4pin jp3-jp1(battery to mainboard).
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Re: Difference between 1.0a and 1.0b

by lightningserpent on Fri Mar 14, 2014 8:38 am

Thanks for the compliment on my soldering. I had never use surface mount components before this project. I am not sure my soldering is as good as you say, but it has improved since. Now I will use surface mount in my board designs; although it's mostly the larger stuff like 0805.

I had a small adjustable power supply set to ~4v. As long as you use a power supply that is about 4v you should be just fine. Keep in mind that if you are using the USBTiny make sure you remove the supply jumper or you will fry the main board's voltage regulator (I did it more than once).

I used metal standoffs and nylon screws. I used the nylon screws to prevent power from being passed through the standoffs, to a surface the WB was laying on, and shorting out. I never found anyone having a problem with using metal screws and I have nothing to base my decision to use nylon screws on. I just felt more comfortable having VCC and GND insulated.

I don't know what the current capacity is of the traces on the 4 pin jumpers and I am not sure what the max current draw of the WB is, but I think it would be best to continue to use metal standoffs. If you are planning to use the boards built in antenna you will need to use metal standoffs on the top as they connect the main board to the antennas of the top and battery board.

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Re: Difference between 1.0a and 1.0b

by fair_child on Sun Mar 16, 2014 10:43 pm

Guys,

I'm back, sorry for late reply. I have been working with other project so I put wave bubble aside. However, this week, I'll try to build the main board, which it will be really challenging for me. Parts came last week, same as Limor pointed under her walk trough. I hope it will work. I still didn't get it about the silk screen, perhaps after I'll go part by part and test I will see it.

Going to burn the software with USBasp, ordered from eBay

EDIT:
I'm back in the saddle again. I did some soldering today. I was almost crying in the middle of soldering. The reason is because so many stuffs are inconsistent,thus I need to do trial and error for most of the parts. Well, I went through power supply section and I almost burn everything. I got 3.3VDC and I got it right. Yeaa, next part was 5VDC, okay, I followed your guide changing to 39k for R3(original R3 was 120k). I got the same reading for output voltage whichI got problem with the output 12V. I installed 12V section but I didn't get 12V as out, I got 5VDC mostly for the out.

My plan is going to revert back to 39k and do jumper the cap. I'm going to use the same VCO which ROS, I hope it would work. I'll take out 33uH, Regulator IC and C14~68uF and jumper to the cap
fair_child
 
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Re: Difference between 1.0a and 1.0b

by fair_child on Wed Mar 19, 2014 9:25 pm

Does anyone have wavebubble 2010 b ?
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Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments.