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Whoops - I think I messed up
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Whoops - I think I messed up

by nutt318 on Tue Feb 12, 2008 7:57 pm

Well after seeing oPossums post about this layout for the EHP version I had a friend tell me about online PCB places. Well I said what the heck and tried it, I think I should have read more about this first.

Here are some pics of the EHP design that oPossum made I believe. Im guessing I dint do something right before sending it in.

Also does this even look like it will work? What can I do to fix this the next time i want to try a printed PCB?

Image

hi res photo
http://www.jnutt.com/jake/programmer/S5000043.JPG
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by caitsith2 on Tue Feb 12, 2008 8:05 pm

Do you have access to a scanner? you can get much better pictures of your PCB with one, at this stage.
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by magician13134 on Tue Feb 12, 2008 8:37 pm

Where did you have those made and how much did they cost?
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by nutt318 on Tue Feb 12, 2008 9:41 pm

Here is the scanned version, I dont know why I dint think to use my scanner.

Image

As for getting them made I used the site my friend told me, pcbexpress.com. They were 63 bucks shipped to my door for the both. After researching it seems like I could have gotten some for alot cheaper.

If anyone has ideas on if these will work let me know, I guess I could start soldering them together. I do have all of the parts to make it use 3 AA instead of the 4AA.
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by canadiancow on Tue Feb 12, 2008 9:53 pm

I can't say I looked at every trace, but I don't see anything wrong with it.

Why are you concerned?
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by oPossum on Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:05 pm

Cool! They look perfect!

Why do you think there is something wrong?
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by nutt318 on Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:11 pm

Oh just that the one side of the PCB is covered in the metal coating and I thought that it should only have just lines/traces of it like the other side.

*edit* Also with the one side will all of the coating everywhere wont I have to be super precise on it not touching the rest of it?

As long as you guys think that it should work, I will start building.

Also does anyone have suggestions for next time when I order so they look more like a finished pcb with the nice coating and white outlines around all of the parts.
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by caitsith2 on Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:15 pm

How many of the PCBs did you order? I don't see nothing wrong with the PCB either.
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by nutt318 on Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:17 pm

I ordered 2 and it only took about a week or so to get to me.
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by oPossum on Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:25 pm

The large metal area is called 'copper pour'. It is used on this board to create a low resistance path to ground. Sometimes it is used for shielding on high speed designs. It can also be used to speed up etching (less copper to remove).

The reason 'normal' boards look green (or red, or black, or blue, or...) is because they are coated with solder mask. This helps prevent solder bridges. Extra care is required when there is no solder mask.

The component marking is usually called 'silk screen'.

Quick turn prototype boards often omit solder mask and silk screen to reduce costs and production time.

If you want production style boards for low cost the best place I know of for the USA is Batch PCB

Bare Bones PCB is a similar to PCB Express. No solder mask or silk screen. Sometimes they are less expensive.
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by nutt318 on Tue Feb 12, 2008 11:12 pm

oPossum, Thanks for the great info. I will be soldering this together soon.

I will let everyone know how it turns out.
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by magician13134 on Wed Feb 13, 2008 9:11 am

At barebone you can get four 4.1"x4.1" boards for $18 a piece. That means you'd get four PCBs per board and it would only cost $72 for 16 boards. Nice!
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by nutt318 on Wed Feb 13, 2008 10:13 am

Wow, that is very cheap going there. I wish I researched this more first but owell.

Anyways I was starting to solder some pieces last night and I ran into a few things I didnt know. On the image below for the green LED which side is postive and which is negitve, either 1 or 2?

Also the green elipse is circling a resistor for the red LED, can i use a green led, I do not have any red ones.

Also I dont plan on using the second battery or the second set of resistors, can someone do some mspaint and show how to avoid this?


Image
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by oPossum on Wed Feb 13, 2008 4:52 pm

Bare Bones PCB price for this board (1.7 x 2 inch)....

Qty 1 = $43.53
Qty 2 = $45.06
Qty 3 = $46.59
Qty 4 = $48.12
Qty 5 = $49.65
Qty 10 = $57.30
Qty 15 = $64.95
Qty 20 = $72.60
Qty 25 = $80.25

+ shipping (usually $10 to $15)

Most of the cost is in the tooling (photomasks), so the more boards you buy, the lower the per board cost.

LED1 and LED10 both have negative on the right (component side view). Red or green is OK for either. Don't use blue or white.

The only optional parts are JP1, JP2, R10 and LED10.

Don't know what you mean by 'second set of resistors'.
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by oPossum on Wed Feb 13, 2008 5:12 pm

Batch PCB price for this board is $10 each + $15 shipping (priority mail). This is for a board with solder mask and silk screen. 3 to 6 week delivery.
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Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments.